Synthetic textiles are something every one of us uses, but what you might not know are the consequences to environmental and human health, or what the clothes you're wearing are really made of. For this blog, I want to go more in-depth regarding synthetic fibers, both about the manufacturing process and the side effects.
Organic man-made fibers are categorized into; manufactured cellulose fibers, and synthetic non-cellulose fibers as shown in the above chart. There are also two other fiber types: natural cellulose fibers and wool fibers. All the above fibers are polymers: a chemical substance consisting of large molecules made from many smaller molecules. Polymers exist all around us, for example, our DNA is also a polymer. But although they are all polymer fibers they're all manufactured differently. To give you a short and sweet overview;
Synthetic fibers are produced by polymerization and are manufactured mostly from coal, oil or natural gas. I will go more in-depth about this process later.
Manufactured cellulose fibers are made from cellulose plant substances (commonly wood pulp), that are extensively and chemically processed into a pulp and then manufactured in the same way that synthetic fibers are made. Cellulose is a natural insoluble substance found in bark, wood, leaves, or other plant-based material. Rayon and Viscose are two extensively used manufactured cellulose fibers.
Natural cellulose fibers are also made from cellulose substances just like manufactured cellulose fibers. However to make natural fibers they are only processed as much as needed to clean and prep the plant fiber for use and are hence still recognized as coming from a part of the original plant which manufactured cellulose fibers are not. Natural cellulose fibers often still resemble the plant fiber they're made from, are considered more sustainable, and decompose faster.
Wool fiber is obtained from animals I.e; sheep, goats, rabbits, etc. This fiber consists of protein polymers and a small percent of lipids. It is distinctly different from natural fibers such as cotton and linen which are made from plant cellulose.
-
Now that you have an overview of the different fiber groups I want to focus on synthetic fibers which are the most prevalent and problematic globally. If you are interested in seeing which countries are the biggest importers and exporters of synthetic fibers use this link https://oec.world/en/profile/hs92/5512/.
Although synthetic fibers are the cheapest and most attractive option they also come with the nastiest strings attached. The synthetic fiber industry is one of the biggest causes of plastic pollution that many have not heard of, and is not regularly spoken about. Research has shown that manufacturing and usage have many potential risks to the environment and human health.
For those of you interested, I have written a more in-depth description of how the synthetic fibers we use every day are made. However, I'll warn you that it's a bit of a mouthful so If you're primarily fascinated by the potential environmental and health risks associated with synthetic fibers then feel free to skip ahead.
Synthetic Fiber Manufacturing
Polymerization - the first step to making synthetic fiber is creating a polymer substance. Polymerization is the process of joining single molecules together to form a chain of molecules. To achieve this chemical catalysts are added to substances such as coal, natural gas or oil to encourage the molecules to combine and create a polymer in a molten liquid form. Some common synthetic fibers in the fashion industry are; acrylic, polyester, and poly-amide which use crude oil as a starting substance.
Spinning - the molten polymer matter is then pressed through extremely small openings in a spinneret which is essentially a sieve. Upon exiting the spinneret, the filaments (endless yarn) produced are either gathered to a filament yarn and spooled or joined to form tows depending on the desired purpose of the end fiber. Spinning can be done by three different methods in manufacturing synthetic fibers, the method depends on the polymer being used. You can see the different methods in the below diagram.
Drawing/Stretching - is the process of stretching the filaments created during spinning which will, in turn, pull the long polymer chains to align themselves in the longitudinal direction. The chains align themselves parallel closely to each other and the cross-forces between these chains improve the tenacity and the filaments become stronger, resulting in stronger and more durable textiles.
Texturing - is done in varying degrees and using different methods depending on what the fiber is meant to look like when finished I.e. to make a rough surface on a fabric, or create a similar texture to natural wool. The texturing procedure is used for visual effects like mentioned before and/or to improve elasticity in the yarn. The machinery and process for texturing changes depending on the type of texture being applied. I.e gear crimping is used to create a wool-like texture.
Finishing - during the finishing steps, the fibers are chemically treated to improve absorption of dyes applied, increase fiber stability, make future bleaching easier, etc. The dyeing process itself is done with a highly toxic variety of chemicals. Dyeing can also be done at earlier stages in the production. Once dyeing is complete a final mixture of chemicals are added for finishing effects such as:
- Easy-care (improvement of crease and shrink resistance)
- Softening
- Filling, stiffening
- Repellents (oil, water, and soil repellents)
- Flame retardants
- Antistatic finishing
- Non-slip finishing
- Anti-microbiotic finishing
Environmental Consequences
Research has shown that there are roughly 1900 chemical substances that are known to be used in textile production. This is a staggering amount of chemicals to wrap your head around and it doesn’t even include all chemicals involved as many are considered confidential to the manufacturer and are therefore unknown to the general public. Out of these 1900 chemicals, 165 have been classified as having potentially hazardous properties, and as many of the remaining chemicals have not been investigated it is hard to say if they are harmful or not. About 30% of the 165 chemicals classified as hazardous have long-term harmful effects on the environment. The other 70% have varying harmful effects on human health which I will take about more later.
Water pollution is the biggest environmental concern regarding the textile industry. Throughout the manufacturing process, large masses of wastewater are disposed which consist partly of highly concentrated residual toxic chemicals from; the equipment, preparation agents, spinning, fiber production, dyeing/printing, and chemical byproducts created. Most of these substances have a low rate of biodegradability I.e petroleum. There is not yet a way to take care of the textile-related chemicals which end up in sewage plants, so there is no way to keep the harmful substances out of the aquatic environment. Polluted water will also affect marine health including seafood which impacts human health.
Consumers using synthetic textiles are also continually exposing the environment to harmful toxins mainly when laundering or disposing of textiles. Bleaching and home dyeing will also release chemicals. To put things into perspective more than 700,000 microscopic fibers could be leached into wastewater during each use of a 6 kg domestic washing machine. Chemical residues from textile fibers make up a large portion of the dust that we have in our homes, which usually when emptying our vacuum cleaning bags is also leeched into the surrounding environment.
In addition to this, toxic sludge from sewage plants is also reintegrated into the soil where the harmful chemicals are absorbed by crops and terrestrial ecosystems, which may result in exposure to humans via food. If waste products are burnt the gases will affect the entire global ecosystem. Unfortunately, there is no good way to dispose of synthetic fibers.
Human Health Risks
As mentioned before an estimate of 70% of harmful chemicals used impact human health. The workers in textile manufacturing factories have the most extreme negative health risks ranging from acute poisoning to more long term effects including cancer due to their extreme exposure to toxins.
Consumers are not exposed to the same level of toxic chemicals as the factory workers, but because the textiles release residue chemicals their health is still at risk. The most common health impact is allergic reactions to chemicals used in textile manufacturing which consumers are exposed to in small doses, studies have shown that a minimum of 1% are allergic to chemicals used in textile dyes. Residual chemicals in textiles are absorbed by humans primarily via skin exposure, indirect skin and oral exposure to dust indoors (I.e inhaling dust), and indirect oral exposure eating contaminated food. Absorption via the skin is very minimal when compared to oral absorption. Which is why children are most vulnerable to being directly exposed to these harmful chemicals due to their proneness to putting everything including clothing and blankets in their mouths.
The risks for longer-term health impacts due to exposure of substances with CMR properties (substances classified as carcinogenic (cancer-causing), mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction) could result in high costs for individuals and society as a whole.
The amount of residual hazardous chemicals found in textiles is largely dependent on the manufacturing process as every textile factory uses a different mixture of partly confidential chemicals. There is also a limited amount of research which has been conducted making it near impossible to measure accurately.
Here are some examples of chemicals used in synthetic fibers and the potential health impacts to give you an idea of what we're dealing with;
- Carbon dioxide - emitted from Rayon's filaments can cause a headache, nausea, muscle pain, and insomnia
- Acrylonitrile - found in acrylic, is toxic in low doses and one of the causes of breast cancer in women
- Caustic soda, sulfuric acid, and formaldehyde - these chemicals are used to manufacture nylon and potential side effects include dermatitis, dizziness, headaches, and spinal pain
Solution
Minimize not eliminate. This is my opinion, not everyone will agree but that's okay. For example, create new and enforced regulations that prevent, or minimize the use of known hazardous chemicals. As well as conduct more research on the side effects on human and environmental health caused by synthetic textiles. As a consumer, it’s best to avoid these fibers as much as we can, where possible buy natural fibers instead. Buying zero synthetic fibers is hard, but buying less is easy. What consumers don’t buy factories won’t make. It’s up to us.
Sources:
https://www.kemi.se/global/rapporter/2013/rapport-3-13-textiles.pdf
https://www.britannica.com/technology/man-made-fiber/Chemical-composition-and-molecular-structure
https://www.academia.edu/11623172/A_study_on_the_synthetic_fibers_and_its_production_process
]]>
Now think about how much time some people spend thinking about the cosmetic products they use, the food they eat, or the plastic bags they do or don't use. Yet somehow most are shockingly undereducated about the clothing industry, why is that?
The textile supply chains include some of the most complex global manufacturing sectors. Considering how many different suppliers and factories were involved throughout the process of manufacturing the clothes you wear will make your head spin.
This article is to give you a brief and understandable breakdown of the clothing industry, in which the largest variants are the different fibers available and the varying processes behind making them.
The clothing industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, these emissions come partly from pumping water to irrigate crops, oil-based pesticides/insecticides, machinery, fossil fuels, and transportation. It is also responsible for using 24% of insecticides and 11% of pesticides globally. These are only a small portion of the issues present in the industry.
Now, these are all truly shocking and terrible facts to come face to face with, but that doesn't mean that it's all bad or that there isn't space from improvement.
Firstly, as previously mentioned, different fibers have different manufacturing processes. Whether it comes from plants, animals or crude oil, the material is then processed until it can be spun into a yarn, which, in turn, is woven or knitted into fabric. Finally, the fabric is then made into garments. Somewhere in that process bleaches and dyes are also applied. These steps are all most commonly fulfilled in different factories if not countries.
There is no perfect fiber as there are so many aspects to take into consideration, including the manufacturing process, the longevity of finished garments, and finally where/how the garments are disposed of. Which when put together makes measuring the sustainability of one fiber over another difficult, although some stand out as considerably more environmentally friendly than others.
-
Here is an overview of the most common fibers in fashion.
Cotton - is biodegradable and usually grown on farms that rely heavily on pesticides, fertilizers, and intensive irrigation. Growing and processing cotton is power and water intensive, especially when compared to linen. The longevity is very dependant on the quality and thickness of the weave/knit of the fabric. But all things considered, cotton is a good option and preferable over man-made cellulose and synthetic fibers.
Linen - is made from the stalks of plants, either flax or hemp. Manufacturing linen is still a water-intensive process, although more sustainable than cotton processing. Growing these plants is also less intensive in terms of water and pesticides/insecticides than most other plant-based fibers i.e. cotton. Linen fabric is not yet a significant contributor in the global fashion industry but has been pointed to as a more environmentally friendly option in the past. It's biodegradable and known for its longevity. This is one of the best options available, however, it is more expensive to produce than most other fibers.
Wool - most commonly from sheep and therefore biodegradable, holds an insignificant amount of global fiber consumption, only around 1-2%. Like all other fibers, it requires large amounts of water and energy to produce. Wool consumption mostly has an agricultural impact on our environment. This aside wool is still considerably better to have in your wardrobe than man-made cellulose, or synthetic fibers.
Man-made cellulose fibers - (viscose, rayon, lyocell, and bamboo) involve taking a renewable material (plant fiber), and breaking it down until it can be spun and woven into a fabric. Because these fabrics are manufactured from renewable material as opposed to the non-renewable materials used for synthetic fabrics (fossil fuels), they are more environmentally friendly and biodegradable. However, making man-made cellulose fiber involves breaking down the raw material with toxic chemicals which are harmful to the environment, it's also an energy-intensive process. In this case, cotton, linen, and wool are better options.
Synthetic fibers - such as polyester, acrylic, nylon, and elastane are made using fossil fuels (non-renewable material) and are not biodegradable. Polyester alone is the most widely used fiber in clothing, accounting for nearly half the world's fiber production (63,000 million tonnes each year). The production of synthetic fibers is a terrible and unsustainable process (we will explore more fully in future articles). In addition to this, they also have the most long term environmental impact while they are being used by you, the consumer. For example, every time these fibers are washed microplastics are released into your grey water and eventually make their way to the ocean. Microplastics from synthetic fibers are being released into the ocean at a rate of roughly half a million tons annually. Suffice it to say this is the most environmentally damaging fiber, which should only be bought out of necessity. However, unfortunately, the manufacturing process behind making synthetic clothing is shockingly cheap making it an attractive fiber for many.
-
Now, people worry about how recyclable or biodegradable the cups they buy are, but do they worry just as much about the clothes they wear? Because as we have just discovered most clothing is not environmentally friendly or biodegradable.
In the face of growing environmental threats, there is an urgent need to radically change our consumption and production systems. In this regard reshaping the fashion industry to focus more on sustainable fibers will play a critical role.
Clothes are essential for our everyday life, consumers will continue to buy, use and dispose of them. It is not a matter of eliminating their usage but rather a matter of improving the cycle by minimizing the environmental impacts. The fibers you choose to buy will change the future of our environment. Make the right choice.
]]>Flax is believed to be the oldest fiber used by mankind. Recent excavations in Georgia have shown that linen fiber does indeed date back up to 34 000 years ago.
This flax fiber was first domesticated in the middle east (it's unclear where exactly), from where the use of this fiber spread throughout the rest of Asia to India, Persia, and China via ancient trading routes. During the time of the roman empire the use of linen also spread to Europe, and of course throughout the 20th and 21st century world wide trading solutions made linen accessible to all nations.
So to give you a more detailed timeline of how flax fiber was used by various nations over the last 5000 years.
Middle East - Ancient Egypt
Ancient Egypt has been utilizing linen fiber to create garments since 2600 B.C. to wear as a display of wealth throughout life, and the afterlife. Linen cloth was used for mummification, the cloth has remained preserved in tombs for hundreds of years. Linen garments were worn to symbolize divinity and purity in Egyptian religion.
Asia - China & India
Not long after it's origination in the Middle East the use of flax fiber spread to India where it was considered a holy fiber, and furthermore to China where flax was predominantly used for oil and medicine. During this time period it was also traded to other corners of Asia for varying purposes.
Middle East & Europe - Roman Empire
In the Roman Empire (which was at its height in 117 CE) flax was believed to be a sign of royalty, and purity. Men wore robes made of linen and adorned their females in fine linen dresses. With the fall of the Roman Empire linen production and export came to a halt.
Europe
France had a big influence on the revival of linen around 700 AD when they pronounced flax to be most sanitary.
During the Middle Ages (1145 -1485 AD) flax was the predominant fiber in Europe. It was utilized for clothing, diapers, bedding, bread sacks, water vessels, rope, resins, and caulking. The flax linen industry continued to flourish throughout the 15th century.
Over the 16th and 17th centuries, the prosperity of the flax industry fell into a deep crisis. During the 17th century, the finest quality linen cloths were produced in Europe, and Belfast soon became the global linen capital. However, the invention of the cotton gin in the United States during 1793 made cotton easier and cheaper to produce than linen.
World Wide
In the early 20th-century, the cotton industry and the introduction of man-made and synthetic fibers continued to challenge the flax industry.
In the late 20th-century flax fibers were used in the aviation and automotive industries, and for furniture, flooring, insulation, bicycle frames, surfboards and guitars. The use of flax for its inherent strength, resistance to abrasion, and fiber stability started to gain value and show promise of importance in major industries.
In today's 21st-century world flax linen has become a sought after fiber, with new trends demanding for natural and quality Eco-friendly clothing, linens and furnishings. Flax grows naturally (little to no fertilizers or pesticides needed), and requires very little water. When harvested all parts of the plant are utilized, leaving a no waste footprint. Flax linen is the becoming the fiber of the millennium.
]]>
Our new Autumn - Winter collection is now in store. Full of spicy new colors and unique styles made to wear with lots of layers to keep you snug and warm on these cool days.
We have custom selected this color palette for you to get you into the Autumn mood.
Some tips for making your perfect Autumn outfit while staying warm, just because it's cold doesn't mean you can't dress up.
1. Start with some base layers of merino - a nice plain long sleeve merino will go a long way to keep you warm (also a good tip if you find the merino a bit scratchy a cotton or bamboo singlet underneath with help a lot to make you feel more comfortable)
2. Leggings are great for warmth - either under a dress or even under your favorite linen pants to keep the chill out, wool tights are awesome for keeping in the warmth, and if it's frosty day you might need two pair of tight to do the trick (and the best part is no one will ever know you're wearing two!)
3. An extra pair of wool socks in your favorite boots to keep your toes cozy
4. Now that we have the basics sorted its time to add you styling layer - either give that beautiful linen dress in your wardrobe an outing or otherwise pop on a pair of linen pants and a blouse
5. Pick colors that make you feel good and show how you feel - whether it be that bright mustard, or a more introverted calm blue
6. Now for the outer layer to ward off the chilly weather - a warm coat is a necessity for this season, if you have chosen a dress for your outfit then it's time to get out that long trench coat style coat which will lift your outfit to an elegant sophisticated level. Or if you have gone with pants and a blouse you can easily go with a short cropped jacket as well, which will give your outfit more shape and help flatter your beautiful curves
7. To keep your extremities cozy some wool or possum gloves, a scarf (preferably wool for warmth) and a hat will make a huge difference in staying warm, seeing as you lose the most heat from these areas if exposed
8. Some colorful jewelry can lift an outfit, especially in this sometimes grey season of the year
9. You're almost ready to go - just don't forget your winter boots and purse for your outing
10. Now show off your outfit to the world and enjoy being toasty warm but also looking beautiful
]]>